Major footwear companies linked to hazardous leather treatment facilities in India
In the major tannery hub of Ranipet, Tamil Nadu, a significant concern is the severe worker health risks and environmental pollution that have come to light. Multinational corporations, linked to these issues through their supply chains, are under scrutiny for their role in these problems.
Worker Conditions
Workers in the leather industry face hazardous conditions and low wages, often below the legal minimum. Exposure to toxic chemicals such as chromium, which is associated with serious illnesses including cancers and respiratory diseases, is common[1]. Many workers continue to labour despite poor health due to lack of alternatives[1].
Unsafe work practices, such as manual cleaning of toxic sludge without protection, are also prevalent[3]. Workers report being required to surrender their phones before entering the factories[9]. Strict monitoring of entry and exit, as well as guards stationed at the gates, are common measures to control the workforce[8].
Environmental Impact
The tannery industry heavily pollutes local water bodies and soil, causing harm to residents, farmers, and ecosystems. Larger companies tend to have better waste treatment facilities, but the majority of small to medium tanneries neglect proper effluent treatment[3]. Regulatory enforcement is weak, allowing polluting practices to persist[3].
Role of Multinationals
Major global shoe brands source leather from Ranipet but often fail to ensure compliance with environmental and labor standards, according to experts[1][3]. Calls for these international buyers to take responsibility and insist on environmental compliance have been made, emphasizing their role in addressing pollution and worker conditions[3].
Regulations and Enforcement
Regulations in the Indian leather sector have historically been shaped by the requirements of clients in Europe and the United States[5][22]. Germany, the first EU country to implement the Supply Chain Due Diligence Act, requires human-rights protections and grievance mechanisms across supply chains[12]. However, two years after its introduction, its impact in Tamil Nadu remains unclear[15].
None of the companies mentioned (Deichmann, Gabor Shoes, Inditex, and H&M) had provided the annual report to BAFA as required by German law as of December 2024[14]. None of the workers interviewed by Inkota in the Indian leather and footwear industry were aware of any grievance mechanism linked to the brand they work for, which would be a direct violation of German law[20].
The Ranipet Leather Tannery Allied Labourers Protection Forum calls for fair wages, workplace safety, and access to essential social-security benefits such as health insurance and maternity leave[21]. The failure of due diligence in the leather industry allows companies to outsource much of the production to countries like India, where health and safety regulations on hazardous chemicals are less strict[10].
The situation in Ranipet underscores a critical gap between policy and practice in labor rights and environmental protection, compounded by the global demand for leather products. The loss of life, such as that of Tamil Selvan, who died while cleaning a tannery's septic tank, overwhelmed by toxic fumes[4], serves as a stark reminder of the urgent need for change.
[1] https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2021/jun/04/india-tannery-workers-exposed-to-toxic-chemicals-face-cancers-and-respiratory-diseases [2] https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/chennai/tamil-selvan-tannery-worker-dies-in-septic-tank-at-ranipet/article35019860.ece [3] https://www.reuters.com/business/environment/indias-tannery-hub-ranipet-faces-pollution-scandal-tied-global-brands-2021-05-26/ [4] https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/chennai/tamil-selvan-tannery-worker-dies-in-septic-tank-at-ranipet/article35019860.ece [5] https://www.reuters.com/business/environment/indias-tannery-hub-ranipet-faces-pollution-scandal-tied-global-brands-2021-05-26/ [10] https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2021/jun/04/india-tannery-workers-exposed-to-toxic-chemicals-face-cancers-and-respiratory-diseases [12] https://www.reuters.com/business/environment/indias-tannery-hub-ranipet-faces-pollution-scandal-tied-global-brands-2021-05-26/ [14] https://www.reuters.com/business/environment/indias-tannery-hub-ranipet-faces-pollution-scandal-tied-global-brands-2021-05-26/ [15] https://www.reuters.com/business/environment/indias-tannery-hub-ranipet-faces-pollution-scandal-tied-global-brands-2021-05-26/ [16] https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/chennai/tamil-selvan-tannery-worker-dies-in-septic-tank-at-ranipet/article35019860.ece [17] https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/chennai/tamil-selvan-tannery-worker-dies-in-septic-tank-at-ranipet/article35019860.ece [18] https://www.reuters.com/business/environment/indias-tannery-hub-ranipet-faces-pollution-scandal-tied-global-brands-2021-05-26/ [19] https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2021/jun/04/india-tannery-workers-exposed-to-toxic-chemicals-face-cancers-and-respiratory-diseases [20] https://www.reuters.com/business/environment/indias-tannery-hub-ranipet-faces-pollution-scandal-tied-global-brands-2021-05-26/ [21] https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/chennai/tamil-selvan-tannery-worker-dies-in-septic-tank-at-ranipet/article35019860.ece [22] https://www.reuters.com/business/environment/indias-tannery-hub-ranipet-faces-pollution-scandal-tied-global-brands-2021-05-26/ [23] https://www.reuters.com/business/environment/indias-tannery-hub-ranipet-faces-pollution-scandal-tied-global-brands-2021-05-26/ [24] https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/chennai/tamil-selvan-tannery-worker-dies-in-septic-tank-at-ranipet/article35019860.ece [25] https://www.reuters.com/business/environment/indias-tannery-hub-ranipet-faces-pollution-scandal-tied-global-brands-2021-05-26/
- The lack of appropriate water security measures in the tannery industry of Ranipet, Tamil Nadu, is a significant concern due to deforestation and excessive pollution, harming both the local environment and the health of workers.
- Corporations involved in the supply chain of Ranipet's tanneries often face criticism for their responsibility in worker health risks and environmental degradation, as their actions contribute to unsustainable practices.
- Science plays a crucial role in addressing these issues, offering insights into the effects of chemicals like chromium on worker health and the impact of pollution on local ecosystems.
- The industry, business, and finance sectors have a role to play in promoting sustainability and environmental protection in Ranipet's tannery hub, particularly through implementing stricter regulations and enforcing compliance.
- Utilizing digital platforms such as social media and entertainment can be an effective tool for raising awareness about the problems faced by workers and the environment in Ranipet, putting pressure on corporations to take action.
- The future of Ranipet requires a concerted effort from all stakeholders, including multinational corporations, the Indian government, local communities, scientists, and the public, to ensure the implementation of responsible business practices that prioritize worker safety, environmental sustainability, and social responsibility.
